It might seem impossibly slow, but it’s happening: the trend to organic cotton farming is slowly, but steadily picking up steam.

[Organic cotton farming] up 36 percent, to reach 11,827 acres, in 2010. U.S. producers harvested 11,262 acres of organic cotton in 2010, representing 95 percent of their planted acres, and yielding 13,279 bales.

While 2011 saw the largest number of acres planted since 1999, harvested acres and bales are expected to be down by 38 and 45 percent, respectively, due to a devastating drought in the Southern Plains. In fact, the extremely dry conditions in Texas forced farmers there to abandon more than 65 percent of their planted crop in 2011.

A modest acreage gain of two percent is forecast for 2012, bringing plantings of U.S. organic cotton to 16,406 acres. Another two percent net gain is in the five-year forecast, bringing the total to 16,716 acres. Where opportunity exists for significant expansion of U.S. organic acreage is most likely in nascent organic cotton-growing regions such as North Carolina, which harvested its first crop of organic cotton in 2011.

 A majority of producers indicated that their cotton was sold by a marketing cooperative. Several indicated that their entire crop was sold to international buyers.
http://www.marketwatch.com/story/us-organic-cotton-acreage-continues-to-grow-survey-shows-2012-01-26 

International buyers mean that the raw goods aren’t being milled domestically. The global supply chain is a pretty crazy thing these days – with raw resources being plucked from one country, refined in another, made in yet another and then (in this case) partially returned to where the raw goods originally came from. By the time you buy that organic cotton shirt, it’s travelled the world and seen things most people can’t imagine.

Marketing cooperatives are pretty cool – think about the struggles that organic farming has (and continues) to go through to find ways to get their produce to paying consumers. CSA’s and other farmer direct distribution models may well be the next step in creating eco-accountability and maintaining the incredibly low margins that keep the apparel industry going. What do you think? Would you go out of your way and accept a little more effort to acquire and product variability if you knew you were supporting an environmentally responsible materials and production process?

 

Organic Cotton FAQ’s: http://www.ota.com/organic/mt/organic_cotton.html

First, why should you care?

http://ecowatch.org/2011/council-for-textile-recycling-launches-initiative-promoting-clothing-recycling/

 

The ‘Hey, that IS inspiring!’ award:
http://www.greeneileen.org/

Eileen Fisher is sortof an ‘old lady’ brand: their women’s clothes are simple, well made and a little pricey without being trendy. I think my Mom owns a Eileen Fisher sweater. But don’t take that the wrong way – I’ve gotten really punch drunk from seeing only certain kinds of sustainability initiatives come out of certain kinds of brands. Though they sell internationally the Green Eileen program is only in a limited area in New York, but hopefully to expand. And is only the latest in a holistic push from materials sustainability in the product line to workshops teaching people how to “unravel a sweater: recycling luxury yarns.”

The ‘Lipstick on a Pig’ Award: 
http://www.gapinc.com/content/csr/html/MakeADifference.html

Despite the inspiring promotional videos, and being one of the first companies to actually do something, I just can’t get really excited about these tiny percentage of overall efforts. Gap, and it’s many subsidiaries (aka socio-economic market demographics and their associated brands) have several programs from job readiness/bring your teen to work days at Old Navy (really? that doesn’t seem very upwardly mobile..), adding recycled content to packaging at Banana Republic and  jeans donation/recycling through the Gap stores. But with a huge market share a little adds up. “ In 2010, Gap’s “Recycle Your Blues” campaign collected more than 360,000 units of denim, which was used to create fiber insulation for nearly 700 homes. The donated denim was given “new life” by being converted into UltraTouch™ housing insulation, in partnership with Cotton Inc.’s COTTON FROM BLUE TO GREEN® program.” Still if there’s any question on “Why Being Less Bad is No Good,” you should be reading Cradle to Cradle by William McDonough & Michael Braungart.

The ‘Holy shit! Why isn’t every company on the planet doing this RIGHT NOW?’ award: 
http://www.patagonia.com/us/common-threads/recycle

Patagonia is the GOLD STANDARD of ecologically responsible apparel. If they’re not already doing it, it’s probably because it’s not yet possible. And hopefully the innovation and brashness of what they’re doing, leagues ahead of anyone else – especially in the performance apparel space – will make them an even more popular choice for consumers as well as shame other companies into getting with the program. Through their ‘Common Threads’ initiative

Join us. Become a partner in the Common Threads Initiative

I’d like to become a partner in the Common Threads Initiative to reduce excess consumption and give the planet’s vital systems a rest from pollution, resource depletion and greenhouse gases.

Patagonia agrees to build useful things that last, to repair what breaks and recycle what comes to the end of its useful life.
I agree to buy only what I need (and will last), repair what breaks, reuse (share) what I no longer need and recycle everything else.
So you can take your old Patagonia clothes into the store and they’ve got the back-end to deal with recycling from an industrial level, including some of those otherwise impossible to recycle synthetics. And unless you’re wearing pure wool exclusively, performance apparel means synthetic. They’ve got a full life cycle approach as well being committed to blue sign fabrics, supporting environmental non-profits and education. Now you know what to get me for Christmas.

Ah science, how I love thee. Every day it seems like more solutions are being found to really important things, like materials science and the environment.

Renewable energy is on everyone’s mind but there’s a few things that are at the bleeding edge of “That would really be something.” Most accessible green energy technologies aren’t yet really green – wind turbines that kill birds & bats (controversial), “bio-fuels” that are dependent on tons of plant matter that should be used for things like growing food, etc. etc. So imagine how great it would be if something like algae (there’s a lot of it and it just keeps getting more out of hand) became that source of renewable energy. We could be taking out something that is often the ocean’s response to industrial pollutants and turn it into something that replaces things like oil and coal. Except there’s still a few key discoveries keeping the idea stuck at “potential.” It’s part of a huge list of science that has the power to be game changing, but has yet to be adopted by industry or “discovered” by people en masse.

 Then in the first month of 2012 there’s this:

http://www.sciencenews.org/view/generic/id/337755/title/Seaweed_study_fuels_bioenergy_enthusiasm

When the team fed alginate to their engineered E. coli, the microbes pumped out ethanol, the researchers report in the Jan. 20 Science. The system yields 80 percent of the theoretical maximum amount of ethanol for a given amount of biomass, the scientists noted, and with further tweaking will probably be even more efficient.Part of the beauty of the system is its flexibility, says Yoshikuni. Because the alginate-degrading enzyme is released into the environment, initial breakdown products can easily be harvested for creating useful compounds such as precursors to nylon or plastics. And when E. coli consume the broken-down alginate the bacteria generate a lot of pyruvate, a chemical intermediate useful for making fuels such as butanol or biodiesel.Seaweed is already harvested at commercial scale in several countries for other uses, and Bio Architecture Lab is working on a pilot plant in Chile to convert seaweed into fuel, says company CEO Daniel Trunfio. Also, any seaweed will do, he notes. “We like to say we’re seaweed agnostic — we can process any brown algae.”

And here’s the really awesome thing that’s caused me to go from being a die-hard pessimist to a cautious optimist: Big Business is participating in trials, making sustainability pledges and finding new ways to do things across all industries. Even the airline and transportation industries!

http://www.businessgreen.com/bg/news/2141558/scientists-hail-algae-biofuel-breakthrough
http://www.guardian.co.uk/environment/2011/dec/05/aviation-low-carbon-fuel

“Unlike cars where there are millions of filling stations, there are only about 1,700 aviation stations in the world. So if you can get the right fuel, like mass-produced algae, then getting it to 1,700 outlets is not so difficult,” Branson said.Branson, who announced last month he hoped Virgin would soon be able to use waste gases from industrial steel and aluminium plants as a fuel, said the industry should aim for 50% sustainable fuels by 2020.”I would be very disapointed if not. Once the breakthrough takles place, getting to 50-100% is not unrealistic. Aviation fuel is 25-40% of the running costs of airlines so the industry is open to new fuels.”Branson, whose Virgin group owns 51% of Virgin Atlantic Airways, was speaking in advance of the launch in Durban of RenewableJetFuels.org, an open access website that assesses and updates the progress of companies planning to produce commercial-scale renewable fuel for aviation.

http://www.treehugger.com/renewable-energy/maersk-testing-algae-biofuel-europe-india-route.html

Shipping giant Maersk has been making a number on interesting efficient improvements in its containers ships as of late, and

now is testing algae-biofuels as well: Right now the Maersk Kalmar is en route from Northern Europe to India running a blend of algae-biofuel and petroleum-based fuel.During the 30-day trip, over 6500 nautical miles, a variety of blend percentages will be tested, including testing how well the ship performs on 100% biofuel. Emissions of greenhouse gases as well as particulate pollution are being monitored along the route.

Inspiration comes from many places. I am switching over from using this blog as a press page to that of an actual blog, now that there are several interesting business and environmental questions that haven’t yet found a place. I wanted to share the many advances happening in textiles, technology, manufacturing and apparel with anyone who cares or wants to know more about the Nona Varnado brand. 90% of this is wildly good news: the momentum of breakthroughs in green/clean technology is amazing.

There are also decisions to be made (cheaper materials & processes means I’ll make more sales & be more attractive to investors) and ethical struggles to consider (I’d like to do everything naturally, locally and with love). To achieve transparency & balance I’m opening up my thought process. (Be kind!)

With all thanks to Crispin Hellion Glover’s 1992 What it is and How it is Done.

“A few years ago, a very few years ago, this happened. But I confused it with this. So I would ask questions. And I found myself in unknown locations. I made specific gestures to make myself absolutely clear. But some of these situations that I found myself in became violent. I can be seen standing in the center with a bandage around my head. This led me to recall my childhood..”


Watch What It Is and How It Is Done in Entertainment  |  View More Free Videos Online at Veoh.com

Nona Varnado will Sponsor the 13th annual NYC Cranksgiving 2012

One of the funnest events in NYC and definitely the most rewarding, you don’t need to dress up like a turkey to be a Cranksgiving champion (but it does help). We’re thrilled to be sponsoring both the NYC and SF races this year.

If you don’t want to race or fun ride through NYC traffic, you can still donate through the website. It’s organized by Ken Stanek, so I’m pretty sure everything is morally upstanding…

Design Guidelines

Over time, it’s become apparent that there are some HOUSE RULES. Designers like to call these manifestos, but seeing as how I’ve got the personality of a +1 more than a #1, I prefer the less grandiose.

  1. It is beautiful. You should buy it because you love it.

  2. It is comfortable and flattering. You will be beautiful in it.

  3. It is reasonably priced. Invest in yourself.

  4. It is designed to be used. Wear it like everyday is a special occasion.

  5. It is locally manufactured. Invest in your community.

These are the questions (in that order) that always come up, from designing a new piece to talking with retailers and the people who actually make things. There’s been a lot of growing up as we discover what things seem like a good idea and what pieces sell because people see the value in them. It’s still a long road, but these are the directions that we’ll be following. And that’s the real value in publishing ideas. It keeps you honest and it helps you connect with other people on a level outside of a pretty picture.

What do you think? Did we miss some thing?

Nona Varnado will sponsor the 6th annual San Francisco Supermarket Street Sweep, an alleycat to benefit the San Francisco Food Bank.

Sunday, December 3, 2011

The Supermarket Street Sweep is an annual bike race that benefits the San Francisco Food Bank! For the past five years, hundreds of participants have zipped around the city to local supermarkets and brought back thousands of pounds of food to donate to this wonderful charity.

SMSW stats:
2006: 80 racers – 1,172 lbs of food
2007: 110 racers – 1,595 lbs.
2008: 150 racers – 5,266 lbs.
2009: 198 racers – 7,507 lbs.
2010: 171 racers – 6,920 lbs. + $4,877

Total Meals To Date:
37,333

28J4X78DRSWH